According to the official FAQ from Nintendo of Japan, using a USB-A to USB-C charging cable is perfectly fine as long as it has a 56K OHM resistor – the official Switch charging cable meets these requirements to a tee, so make sure any dock you might be purchasing ticks these boxes or you’re going to run the risk of putting your handheld wonder six usb c portable charger nintendo switch under. Have you had your Switch brick from using a third-party charger? Has your Switch been perfectly fine with a non-first-party dock?
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Bearded malcontent Dom has been writing about games for so long he’s practically forgotten what reality looks like. Over his career he’s written for just about every site and mag out there. You’ll almost always find him catching Pokémon or yelling at dragons in Skyrim. Basically stop buying cheap ass 99 cent cables and expect them not to fry you electronics. So, can this be utilized in third party docks? I don’t know anything about electronics. I’ve used a lot of charging cables in my life, I like electronic gadgets, but I’ve never known they had OHM resistors in them much less how many K they were, and it’s not something I recall ever seeing mentioned on Amazon either.
And I thought charging the Switch wasn’t the problem, the Switch was USB-C compliant, it was the dock handshake connection that was the problem. You’d think that it would work universally, wouldn’t you I still think it’s the device’s fault that it just bricks. My Switch is Europe region, came with Official adapter that Perfectly can be plugged on Indonesia electricity. And i always plug my Switch with Official adapter whenever i want to play my Switch but with low Battery.
I don’t have a third party docking station so I’m not worried but it’s nice to know the Switch isn’t at fault here. Long story short stop buying cheap knockoffs from China or people who use parts from there to charge your Switch otherwise you risk killing it. The 56k ohm resistors are only needed for USB-A to USB-C, which is a total and utter waste anyways due to capping watts at 7. USB-C to USB-C is the only right answer. Is this issue only related to USB-A to USB-C then as per the news article? When a product first comes out, I always buy the “official” brands. It’s just not worth the risk.
Anker, so it’s good quality, and I’ve now checked and it does have the 56K OHM resistor, so it should be fine. How did you read the specs? Where does it say what the specs needed for USB C to USB C? Do Nintendo sell an official USB A – USB C lead.